Sunday, August 24, 2014

Celebrating 20 Years Mountain Running

In 2014 it's already been 20 years since I got hooked on mountain running. I've already celebrated this summer by finishing Lavaredo Ultra Trail 119km and Eiger Ultra Trail 101km.

Mountain crystal finisher award I received after Swiss Alpine Marathon 1995. 

I spent the summer 1995 in Switzerland training around Walensee, Melchsee, Davos, Saint Moritz and several other fantastic locations.

I also finished four tough and steep races that summer:

  • Vilan Berglauf 13.5km +1,840m
  • Frutigen-Adelboden Berglauf 19.5km +950m
  • Gotschna Berglauf (Klosters) 11.5km +1,080m
  • Swiss Alpine Marathon (Davos) 67km +2,700m

Those were very good times. In fact whenever you are running in the mountains, it's always a great pleasure.

But what matters is the next 20 years. There are still so many awesome races I want to finish. Starting from Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc 168km (104 miles) next weekend, my longest ultra so far.

Happy trails!

Sunday, August 3, 2014

UTMB 2014




Teaser Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc® 2014 by UltraTrailMontBlanc

It's August. For ultra trail runners, it means only one thing: it's UTMB-time. The legendary Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc is the biggest and best-organised mountain ultra trail event. With 7,273 runners participating in five ultra races (PTL, UTMB, TDS, CCC, OCC) it's the de facto World Championships. There are other races that are perhaps tougher, older and more prestigious, but they tend to be relatively small and low-key events. For example, Hardrock 100 has only 140 runners struggling to find their way on a largely unmarked course. There is only one Mont Blanc, and it's unique.

This year the list of favorites for the 168km (104 miles) UTMB looks very interesting. Having witnessed the winning performances of Anton Krupicka and Rory Bosio in 119km Lavaredo Ultra Trail 2014, my money is on them - assuming they will be healthy at the end of the month.

However it's worth noting that their competition will be extremely tough. For men the list is ultra long: Timothy Olson, Francois D'Haene, Miguel Heras, etc.

For women the list is more compact, as about 90% of participants are men. Nuria Picas is always a fierce competitor. In addition, 5-Time UTMB Champion Lizzy Hawker will be back in Chamonix!

Even Finland's Fritjof Fagerlund (who lives in Sweden) is listed. There will be 34 Finnish runners in 2014 races: 12 in TDS, 8 in OCC, 7 in UTMB, 5 in CCC and 2 in PTL. It should be noted that while officially PTL is not a race, the top teams tend to fight pretty hard for a podium finish. The Finnish team has placed 2nd, 1st and 2nd in the past three years. This year the course (which changes every year, but always goes around Mont Blanc) is the longest (306km) with more elevation gain (+28,000m) than ever. It's possible our Team Rumue will be the first in Chamonix.

I'm proud to be one of 2014 UTMB participants. I did CCC in 2012, and this year I won the jackpot - I'll be one of the 2300 UTMB starters in Chamonix at 5:30pm on Friday, August 29th. On the last Sunday of this month we will know the results. My bib is 549 - wish me luck, I probably need it!


The biggest question mark will be once again the infamously unstable Mont Blanc weather. Not only is Mont Blanc the highest peak in the Alps, it also boasts the most challenging weather. And those conditions can change faster than you can say DNF.

Even in August, statistically a nice summer holiday month, snow/hail with strong winds and intensely cold temperatures are totally possible. On the other hand, it can also be hot and sunny. Or rainy and foggy with muddy trails. As the organisers advise in the security section of their website: 'Anticipate the cold as well as extreme heat.'


Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc® - Eléments by UltraTrailMontBlanc

Two years ago I experienced the full force of the elements in CCC, when we were told to wear four layers of clothing. I did as ordered and put on a technical t-shirt, a long-sleeve warm shirt, a fleece and a full rain suit with a hat and double gloves, but still managed to feel cold at the highest passes. Only the hooded plastic poncho I happened to carry in my backpack saved me - my extra fifth layer.

The list of 'obligatory material' below should be taken seriously. At least I will. The organisers will most probably check you have everything at the bib pick-up. They might also ask you to show a random item during the race. I won't risk anything: I will carry every single thing exactly as required, all the way. I don't want to be disqualified at an aid station because my Salomon Soft Cup is 125ml, and not 15cl as required. I will be a good boy and have a 150ml cup.

About the poles I'd say: yes, I'll carry them and use them most of the time. They are a huge advantage and legal, so why not? BUT: be careful not to hurt/annoy the people around you, and don't wear the hand straps in steep descents in case you lose your balance. BD Ultra Distance poles are a popular choice, but take care or they might get broken. Especially if you are at all like me.


Finally I'd like to take this opportunity to mention that I feel a deep respect for all the fabulous race volunteers. It might be a good idea to smile and thank them, although you might be feeling dead by the time. A few kind words or a bad joke (preferably attempting to say it in their language for extra fun) never hurt anyone.

It's interesting how the true nature of a competitor is revealed in how they treat the vols. Please let's try to remember that they work very hard and long hours for free - and make it possible for you to be there and enjoy feeling dead :-)

At the end of the day, it doesn't really matter if you finish in 1000th place or whatever your goal is. But if you can leave a thousand volunteers along the way feeling a bit happier - now that's an achievement.


Les Bénévoles de l'Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc® by UltraTrailMontBlanc

Ok that's all folks. Let's have the most beautiful adventure ever! See you at UTMB 2014!

 
Beautiful adventure by UltraTrailMontBlanc

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Eiger Ultra Trail 101km 2014 RR

Eiger Ultra Trail 101km +6700m course profile.
Hoi!

Eiger Ultra Trail 101km is one of the steepest mountain ultra trail races with 6700m ascent and 6700m descent. The highest point Faulhorn is 2680m. They have also 51km and 16km distances.

Map of the E101 counterclockwise loop.
A quick lesson on Swiss German language. At breakfast you know what müesli is. Just be careful not to ask for müüsli, because that is a small mouse! Chuchichäschtli is kitchen cupboard, while chäschüechli means cheesecake! Walk is laufe and run is ränne. It sounds very funny.

Dawn at Grosse Scheidegg revealed the beautiful Bernese Oberland.
After my Eiger Ultra Trail DNF in 2013, I had some unfinished business in Grindelwald. My goal was to finish the race well within the cut-offs, while fully enjoying the experience without rush. In a course as scenic and challenging as this, it would be madness to be über-speedy. I planned to take tons of photos. KEEP CALM AND RUN STEEP is my new mantra/motto.

My mantra.
When preparing for this race, the trouble was the ankle I sprained in the beginning of Lavaredo Ultra Trail.  One more reason to be careful out there. There's nothing easier than re-rolling an ankle.

This is the long descent to Burglauenen. It may look easy, but was actually the most technical part.
I've been a Hoka fan for a couple of years, but now none of the current Hoka models seem suitable for me.

Rapa Nui is a good shoe, but I wouldn't recommend it for distances above 50 miles. Stinson was my favorite shoe, but the new 2014 model seems to be an ankle-roller. It looks pretty much the same as before, but apparently they have made some small changes that makes it more unstable.

Unfortunately both Bondis and Mafates have not fit my feet so well in the past. So I haven't even tried the latest models of them.

My solution was to run in my trusty old 2013 Stinson Evo's. With them I have never experienced any ankle issues. Wish I had bought many pairs of them while they were available. As durable as Hokas are, I have now used this pair over 1000 miles. Surely they will take 100km more!

Get outta my way, Bachsee! I was running relatively fast in the morning, as I knew it would become hot soon.

When I arrived in Grindelwald on Thursday, the weather was hot and sunny. I was happy about this, as I usually do well in a tropical climate. The race briefing on Friday evening confirmed the good news: the sunny weather would continue during the race. It would be hot with temps in the 30-35°C range, so we were advised to drink a lot. That wouldn't be a problem, because the Alps provide natural crystal-clear ice-cold drinking water and the Sponser-sponsored aid stations would be well-stocked.

Even the notoriously thunderous Männlichen mountain would be likely to remain thunder-free, according to the Alpine weather experts. I was relieved to hear this, as my DNF 2013 was caused by a thunder on my way up Männlichen. I had gotten hypothermic. Now I carried new better rain gear, tested already in Lavaredo.

The gear check was quick and painless. A dude asked me if I have everything on the gear list. I said yes. He said ok, next! The organizers have obviously learned a lot from last year's first edition.

At Schynige Platte, the hottest and dryest part, enjoying the emerald Lake Brienz.

The first marathon went smoothly. I kept on repeating in my mind constantly: "Let's roll, but please not the ankle!"

Schynige Platte is the hottest part of the course and there are few mountain streams for refreshment. I didn't feel like eating too much for a while, which caused me to bonk. In a steep downhill there were some tourists coming up. They didn't give way or offer encouragement (like most people did), so I took a steep shortcut. My feet slipped and while regaining balance by wildly swinging my arms and poles, I twisted my lower back! Fortunately I was able to continue, albeit rather slowly.

The downhill to the halfway point Burglauenen has some seriously technical trail. This is the aid station with our drop bags and also the lowest point of the course (905m). I really wanted to get down there as fast as possible, but I'll be damned if this isn't the most horrendous obstacle course I've survived - including London Heathrow Airport!

Climb up to Männlichen is a Vertical K within a 101km race!
The +1800m trail from Burglauenen to Männlichen via Wengen seems crazy hard. Or so I thought until I made the mistake of mentioning this to a waitress at my hotel. She laughed, "Pfff, that's nothing really, I've easily done it many many times by myself!" Me and my big mouth.

In the race when I reached about the halfway point of the 'Vertical K' from Wengen to Männlichen, I felt already really tired. I was moving up extremely slowly, step by step. There were a couple of guys sitting on a bench, just in case someone needed help. I said hello to them, thinking soon I've conquered this mountain. Surely I won't be getting in trouble this time. After everyone had said it would be very unlikely to rain today.

Just then I heard a thunder and it started to rain. I put on my rain gear and sprinted up the slope before things would get nasty like last year. I thought this can't be happening to me again. A replay of my 2013 DNF started to play tricks in my mind. Luckily after ten minutes the thunder died down. It didn't have enough power for a full lightning show this time. The weather cleared up again and I was saved. I reached Männlichen Berghaus 7:21pm in good spirits. I was well under the 11:00pm cut-off. I had been racing 14 hours 51 minutes since the 4:30am start. I felt certain that I could finish within the 28-hour overall limit. I just knew it.

Descending from Eiger Trail to Alpiglen aid station, 87 km done. Almost there!

I was able to climb up to the famous ski-mountain Lauberhorn and then descent the snowless slopes to Kleine Scheidegg before sunset. From there on to the finish I'd use my headlamp.

The ridge up to Eigergletscher (Eiger Glacier) felt spooky in the dark. It was crazy steep and the föhn wind was strong. Wikipedia states, "Föhn winds are notorious among mountaineers in the Alps, especially those climbing the Eiger, for whom the winds add further difficulty in ascending an already difficult peak." I experienced this for the first time. It was weird how warm it was. I ran the 6km Eiger Trail feeling unusually warm for a night run above 2000 meters. It felt like the Space Mountain ride in Magic Kingdom.

I was very happy to cross the finish line at 3:11am in 22h41min.
I reached Alpiglen around midnight. From there it was a simple road down almost to Grindelwald, but taking a right turn to Marmorbruch and climbing the final steep mountain Pfingstegg. From there it was just a few km mostly easy downhill road to the finish. I crossed the finish line in Grindelwald a little after 3am. My total time was 22:41. I felt really good and felt no major physical issues. Just tired and happy.

Merci Eiger Ultra Trail, Grindelwald, volunteers and supporters! What a great race, which I recommend for mountain ultra trail runners. Local star Urs Jenzer from nearby Frutigen won with 11:56:42. The Italian superlady Francesca Canepa was the fastest woman again with 13:33:20 - she failed to show up at the Awards Ceremony the next morning though.

After Lavaredo and Eiger under my belt, I feel ready for UTMB at the end of August. But let's quote footballer-philosopher Paul Gascoigne: "I never predict anything - and I never will!" 😀

Below a few pics from my iPhone, to prove I took plenty of breaks to enjoy the scenery.
Like the local hit song S' Vogellisi says, the Bernese Oberland is beautiful indeed. I hope to return there someday.

Wenn i nume wüsst wo s'Vogellisi wär,  
s'Vogellisi chunt vo Adelbode her,  
Adelbode liit im Berner Oberland,  
s'Berner Oberland isch schön,  
Z'Oberland,  
ja z'Oberland, 
z'Berner Oberland isch schön, 
z'Oberland,  
jo z'Oberland, 
z'Berner Oberland isch schön!


The finish gate leading to the finish line 200m down this way.

The course is permanently marked with little green signs.

The last climb before the finish: Pfingstegg (about half-way up the mountain).

Eiger dusk from my hotel balcony.

Eiger dawn from my hotel balcony.

My bib.

The course was also marked with plastic ribbons like this.

The road to race HQ and start/finish area.

Outdoors Expo.

Standing by the Eiger Ultra Trail tent in tropical conditions.

Free Pasta Party meal with local alkoholfrei beer.

The new 400m shorter route up Männlichen was announced at the race briefing.

Starting area 15 mins before the 4:30am start.

Sunrise and cows everywhere at Grosse Scheidegg.

The road up Grosse Scheidegg.

Spectators gathered around First.

At First again, about 22km, the 2nd climb done!

Bachalpsee 2262m, a must for a photograph stop.

Clinbing up from the lake.

A clear view of Eiger and the other surrounding mountains.

On our way towards Oberläger aidstation.

There's our trail somewhere.

Nice boulders.

A small checkpoint hut.

Arrival on the top of Faulhorn 2680m, the highest point at 33km.

A Golden Eagle with about 2m wingspan flying below me.

Swiss flag on the windy top.

Descending to Schynige Platte.

Funny boulder shapes in Schynige Platte.

This place was hot!

No water, dry landscape.

Supporters were everywhere. Super! 

Descending a nice trail.

A view to Lake Thun and Interlaken.

Das Berner Oberland ist schön.



Brienzersee, the emerald lake.

It's a long hot way down to the valley below.

After Burglauenen, climbing to Wengen.

Climbing to Wengen is tough, but the worst is yet to come!

Climbing the 'Vertical K' to Määnlichen. The mythical Lauterbrunnen Valley below.

After Männlichen it's straight towards Eiger and Mönch. 

The sunset seen from Lauberhorn.

Descending from Lauberhorn.

Running to Kleine Scheidegg before it gets dark.

Authentic Swiss cow bell players at the Awards Ceremony.

This bling rocks! A piece of Eiger will always be with me now.